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Del 3

We stroll around for almost an hour.
“How about ligo krasi me mezé?”
“What a splendid idea” is my answer.
Best spot to follow the daily life in Agora is from the kafenion just in the centre of the building.
We find a table and order. We get fast and good service and in a minute we have a red kartoutso with local wine and a plate of small dishes to enjoy.
Now is the time when tourists flock in large numbers, often showed around by a guide with an umbrella high in the air as a sign saying; follow me and do not get lost.
Men dressed in black with muddy boots, men with paper briefcases, women with heavy bags, elegant city women, Chinese salespeople both men and women, men selling “Lotto” and many more, they are all represented on the floor of Agora.

Is that a bird chirping? The sound is loud, too loud to be a real bird actually.
No, the sound comes from a small plastic bird filled with water. Air is blown into it by a woman and that creates the noise. She is selling good, especially to small children.
In the middle of the aisle in front of Koukoudakis “kreopolio” stands an old butcher, dressed in a bloodstained white coat. He turns to the left and he turns to the right as if he is looking for somebody. I guess, he is just curious about the other shops and how they sell.
After a while though, he is back behind his chopping block again cleaning meat from tendons and strings. The knife looks very sharp but his hands are steady and he knows how to handle it. The old man does it without glasses. His eyes must be as sharp as his knife and very alert. Impressing!

The kafenion is soon crowded by thirsty tourists. They discuss the butcher’s places. Some like what they see and are very positive. Some do not and say: “All those heads” or “What is that thing, stomach?” or “Intestines and sheep testicles” or “How can they eat that?”
Of course, they have not tasted any of it.

A maybe 60-year-old woman and her a bit older husband occupy the table next to ours.
She orders two frappé and four big glasses of water.
They discuss something and the husband leaves.
She is fast and orders a big glass of raki.
“ASPRO PATO”, bottoms up at one go.
She takes it like a man.
She is a heavy smoker and crosses herself before every drag and every sip of water.
The husband returns and they have coffee together. They look happy and often give each other big smiles.
After 10 minutes, they leave holding hands.

There is also “the four old men gang”. They meet now and then over a glass of krasi me mezé and it is easy to see that they really enjoy each other’s company.
They play their komboloi, they tease, tell jokes and laugh, tell news and have a good time together.
I wish we had more of this in the northern part of Europe.

Two o’clock we return to Theodora’s and are lucky to find a free table.
We greet O kapetanio Georgos, Christos, Manolis, Kostas, Stelios, Manouso, Michalis, the little boy who loves liver so much, and many more in “O Zerbos” fan club.
The atmosphere is as always very friendly and welcoming.
We order paidakia, brizola and xoriatiki. Unfortunately, today there is no kokoretsi, which is one of my absolute favourites.
To drink of course we order wine, kokkino. This local wine (from the barrel) to the food is like man and wife of an old married happy couple; made for each other, faithful to each other and in love with each other, a splendid combination.
All kinds of meat, sausages, intestines, liver and so on are kept in a big fridge standing next to the back entrance door.
Theodora brings out two pieces of meat to his chopping block and starts to cut paidakia.
It is amazing how he handles that big mixture of an axe and a knife. He has been here since 4 o’clock this morning and really has to focus on what he is doing. He still has all fingers left…….on both hands.
He places half a kilo of paidakia and a giant brizola on the grill, spreads salt and rigani and then it is only to wait. In the meantime, we enjoy the xoriatiki, so well done by Theodora’s mother.
The “lottery-man” returns and the early morning procedure is repeated. There are not many numbers left and soon someone will “let chance decide” who is the winner of today.
Theodora brings the plates, brizola for my wife and paidakia for me and of course lemons. Kali orexi!
The smell and the taste ........simply magnificent.

People come and leave and they all seem to know each other. Stories and jokes are told. Food, wine and beers are ordered and as the custom bids, the neighbours at the next tables now and then invite you to share a bite of their food or a glass of their wine.............and soon we have more wine in our glasses and more food on our plates.
We of course follow their custom and do the same.
It is just a simple gesture but it really appeals to us.
Life is fantastic, if you just let it come to you!

Tourists pass in a slow going stream on the other side of the water-bath desk. Some of them stop and with big eyes look at the food behind the panes, then at the guests and then back at the food again……and continue their walk.
Some stop to watch Theodora cut paidakia or brizoles. They shake their heads and continue to a safer place.
They do not know what they just have missed.

The “lottery-man” is back again. He announces the winning number and the name of the lucky winner, who today is the owner of nearby situated cheese shop.
Suddenly there is commotion and voices get louder. What now?
The guests at the next table stand up and they all have money in their hands. It is time to pay and they all argue to pay ….for everybody around the table
Money is thrown on the table, protests of course; money is taken from the table and put back into a pocket, new money on the table, new protests. This goes on for minutes and suddenly the bill is paid for. By whom, do not ask me.
By the way, I cannot understand how it is possible to come up with a bill at all. Theodora is satisfied and so are the quests and it is calm again, for a while. Soon this episode will repeat itself.
The table is cleared and new guests arrive.

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